Added August 2021

THE RUNNING PLATE

The running plate for the E2 is a rather complex shape, with a high central section and ‘roll-down’ front and rear. I’ve used my guillotine to cut a piece of 10 thou nickel-silver to width, and a little over-length. Bending the running plate to shape around a length of 6mm diameter brass rod can be a bit hit-and-miss, and takes a little care. Once satisfied with the shape, the next awkward bit is the valence. I’ve marked and shaped the top of it and temporarily spot- soldered it to the running plate to check and perfect the fit.




With the top fitting snugly against the running plate, I’ve marked out and then used a fret-saw to cut the valence to shape (left). Drilling and cutting the buffer beams is a little more straightforward (right).






With the valence cut to shape, I’ve then cut the running plate to length, and marked the area to be cut out under the boiler and side tanks. Using a fret saw requires a little practice to cut a reasonably straight line, without breaking too many blades. It’s worth drilling holes at each change of direction to facilitate negotiating the corners. A little bit of work with a file is required to clean up the sawn edges.

To provide support while cutting, I have a piece of chipboard with a V-shaped cut-out (left).

With the running plate components cut out, assembly can commence. I have a piece of plywood with square, vertical edges which I use to hold or clamp components in place whilst soldering. In the photo (left) one buffer beam is clipped against the vertical edge (with a spacer of thin card, to provide the small overhang of the running plate over the buffer beam) and spot soldered in place. In the photo right, the second buffer beam is fully soldered in place after removing the clip.



Similarly with the valence, I have clamped the running plate down, and using spacers (1/32” balsa wood) clipped the valence in place and soldered the components together.

Finally, I have trial-fitted the running plate to the chassis to check for fit, and soldered on the 10BA nuts to hold the chassis in place.







Next up, making and fitting the boiler.